Exploring Germany’s East Frisian islands: mudflats, marshes and millions of birds

The seven inhabited isles off the North Sea coast, part of a Unesco world heritage site, are a sanctuary for wildlife – with great hotels and restaurants too ‘Can you hear that?” my guide Andrea Wellmeyer asks as I sink a little deeper into the wet ground, cold mud seeping between my toes. When the wind drops, I detect a faint but distinct crackling, similar to the rustle of a sweet wrapper or the bubbling of sparkling water. “That’s the Wattknistern ,” she says, “a natural phenomenon caused by the tens of thousands of mud shrimp that live here.” We’re standing in the Wadden Sea mudflats on No

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